Smart Chain

Press Release
Sidewinder “Smart Chain” for Sport Bikes

Sidewinder is introducing a “smart”, new concept for reducing friction, drag, and horsepower loss in sealed Sport Bike racing chains. The idea is to provide the longest lasting, sealed-for-life chain, with very high tensile strength ratings and yet achieve the N.Z.D. (near zero drag) of an unsealed type chain. Sidewinder has achieved this goal with their new “Smart Chain.” This revolutionary new, intelligent chain will satisfy the demands of the racer/rider seeking maximum horsepower without compromising life and durability. After a five year research program, Sidewinder engineers devised a method to impregnate O-rings with patented, temperature and pressure sensitive synthetic lubricants. As the chain operates, it heats up. In moments, the thermally sensitive V-series “Smart O-Rings” react to the temperature rise and trigger the release of the embedded, slippery synthetic lubricants. The pressure points where the “Smart O-Rings” are squeezed between the sideplates are instantly lubricated. The friction and drag are reduced to near zero resulting in the transmission of maximum power to the rear wheel. You go faster.

These clever, little O-rings are pretty “smart.” Besides being self-lubricating, the circular, round-cross-section, O-style ring provides a much longer lasting seal than the X, D, T, and Z rings. This extended life will translate into big savings for the rider by minimizing replacement costs. The new Sidewinder “Smart Chain” has also demonstrated a greater resistance to damage inflicted by harsh solvents, chemicals, and UV exposure. Running a “Smart Chain” that delivers more power and saves you money will also prove that you are a lot smarter too. Now available from Sidewinder Racing Products in 428, 520, 525, and 530 pitch in four increasing tensile strengths from 7,000 to 16,000 lbs. Riders also have the choice of double-gold or triple-nickel plating in the full range of Smart Chains. Pricing begins at $109.99. For additional, detailed tech info, contact Sidewinder Products at 630-513-1000 http://www.sidewindersprockets.com/

Yamaha YZ85 Big Bore KIt

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
-------------------------------------

Of interest to editors and journalists covering: Motorcycle products, motosports, motocross, enduros, off road sports, and general business

Glenwood Springs Colorado – October 17, 2007 Marvin Claridge of Kustom Kraft Performance Inc. has announced the release of their 2007 Yamaha YZ85- 110cc Big Bore Kit.

Kustom Kraft Performance classifies this kit for expert riders only. This is a huge increase, 30% more displacement for a massive increase in low end and mid range. If you need more power but aren’t ready for a 125 or 250 this is a viable alternative to spending thousands of dollars to step a class or two. With this package your YZ85 will rocket off the line and out of the corners like a 100 on steroids.

The 110cc big bore kit is a straight forward modification. KK machines your cylinder and installs a special hardened moly/steel sleeve. They then hand match and port your cylinder for the new configuration. The cylinder is bored and finished to precisely fit the new piston and rings.

Your head is re-shaped to accommodate the 54mm bore and squish band is adjusted to provide the optimum combustion. The entire combustion chamber is polished to a mirror finish. To be sure of good head gasket seal the sealing surface is machined smooth and flat.

The kit is supplied with a brand new piston, rings, and clips. Plus the entire top end gasket set. Kits are done using your cylinder and head in about a week.

Because of the huge 54mm bore size case modification is required. It’s not a big machining job, but because you don’t want to get any shavings in the crankcase it’s recommended that you completely disassemble the bottom end and then do the cutting or grinding to allow room for the larger piston.

Kustom Kraft will do the machining for you at a reasonable cost, or they can do the complete tear down and re-assembly if you prefer. Call and talk to Marvin about your needs toll free 888-697-4343

Kustom Kraft Performance has been around for almost 40 years repairing, sleeving, plating cylinders and designing big bore kits.

Kustom Kraft Performance has other kits and other sizes for the Yamaha YZ80 and YZ85’s at http://kustom-kraft.com/YAMAHAKITS.html

For more information about Kustom Kraft visit their website at http://kustom-kraft.com/ or call toll free 888-697-4343.

Lifetime Guaranteed Sprockets

“Lifetime Guaranteed…Titanium II Sprockets”....For 2008, Sidewinder Sprockets and Chains brings you the sprocket you’ve been waiting for….A Guaranteed-For-Life “Titanium II.” Building on the highly successful “Ti-Moly” line, Sidewinder engineers have now enhanced the already legendary strength & durability of their exclusive Ti-Moly material by the addition of molecular Boron. The result is “Titanium II”….the only sprocket in the world that comes with a Lifetime Guarantee against wearing out. You won’t get that with any aluminum or multi-piece aluminum/steel sprocket from any other manufacturer in the world, period. Sidewinder is first again with a product no one else can match. Also, if you are an American – check this out….Sidewinders are not made in England, Czechoslovakia, Lower Slobovia, Taiwan, China or anywhere else – Sidewinders are made in the USA. Call today for “Ti-II” availability and price for your make and model. 630-513-1000 (24/7) or go to www.SidewinderSprockets.com/titanium_sprockets.html

Kawasaki KLX250S Big Bore Kit

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
-------------------------------------
New 330cc Big Bore Kit for the 2006 and 2007 Kawasaki KLX 250 S.

A Monster bolt on improvement for the KLX 250S.

Glenwood Springs Colorado – October 15, 2007 Kustom Kraft Performance Inc. has announced the release of their KLX 250S Big Bore Kit. It is a fairly simple bolt on cylinder kit. The kit increases the piston displacement by a whopping 30% over stock. That’s 80cc more displacement for increased power throughout the power range. Most owners of the KLX 250S would agree that the bike is in dire need of more power. If you want more power to lift the front wheel, roost out the corners, or climb the dunes then this is for you. Be sure to check out the test done by “Adventure Motorcycle /Dual Sports News”, link is at the end of this article.

The kit is supplied with a brand new 83mm cylinder, a high performance JE piston with rings, pin and clips, plus the cylinder head gasket and base gasket. Kits are made to order in about two weeks.

The price for the KLX 250S kit is $769.00 plus S&H

Hold-on want even more? How about 28+ horsepower (dyno tested), that’s 11+ horsepower, 70% more than stock? If you do KK recommends adding cams, pipe, carburetor, and cylinder head porting. Call toll free 888 697 4343 for prices.

What if you have a KLX300 and you want more fun too. Kustom Kraft Performance will do a 330cc kit for your KLX 300. This kit doesn’t require a new cylinder, just send your old cylinder (it doesn’t even have to be in working condition) and they will machine it to accept the 83mm bore and re-plate it like new. The kit is also supplied with a high performance JE piston with rings, pin and clips, plus the cylinder head gaskets and base gasket. Kits are made to order in about two weeks.

The price for the KLX 300 kit is $440.00 plus S&H

KK recommends for even more fun add the cams, pipe, carburetor, and cylinder head porting to the KLX 300.

Kustom Kraft Performance has been around for almost 40 years repairing, sleeving, plating cylinders and designing big bore kits.

To read the complete test of the KLX250 330 Big Bore Kit by Adventure Motorcycle/ Dual Sports News visit http://kustom-kraft.com/klx250bb.html

For more information about Kustom Kraft visit their website at http://kustom-kraft.com/ or call toll free 888-697-4343.

Motorcycle Cylinder Repair

Small Engine Maintenance
Motorcycle-ATV-Snowmobile- Personal Watercraft-Outboard Cylinder Repair
Cylinder Sleeving VS. Cylinder Plating
By Thomas Schueneman founder of Kustom Kraft Performance http://kustom-kraft.com

Modern small displacement engines use a variety of cylinder types. There are iron type cylinders and plated type cylinders. Original equipment manufactures (OEM) produce many variations of both types and all are excellent performers and very reliable. The only real issue is how do I repair my cylinder after a failure? You may think you’ll never have to face that problem, but if you keep your vehicle or toy long enough you will eventually have to make this decision. In the following article I’ll try to make that decision more enlightened.

Recent History of Cylinder Types

The oldest and most common method of cylinder design is a cast iron block that is machined with a cylindrical bore directly from a solid casting. There is also a cast iron block that incorporates a sleeve that is pressed into the iron block. Generally iron block motors weren’t very successful in small engines. Most small engines were used in vehicles and equipment that needed to be light and mobile. This made cast iron blocks undesirable for this purpose. There were a lot of single cylinder motors used in lawn mowers, construction equipment, scooters, small tractors and small motorcycles that used cast iron block motors in the early years. These began to disappear in the 60’s and they were replaced by aluminum block motors with cast-in iron liners. This opened the door for new lightweight motors that could be used in many more applications and in bigger displacements than ever before. This was accomplished by placing a cast iron sleeve into the mold before the molten aluminum was poured into the mold. This made the sleeve an integral part of the cylinder block. The sleeve usually had locking rings or flanges around the outside to prevent it from slipping in the casting as the engine expanded from the heat generated by the combustion process. A major problem occurred often when air pockets would develop during the casting operation around the sleeve. This caused hot spots and often caused premature engine cylinder failure.
There is another type of aluminum block with a cast iron sleeve that wasn’t cast-in; it is installed in the block after casting. The cylinder bore of the aluminum block is machined to 3-5 thousands of an inch less than the sleeve diameter, block is then heated to around 600 degrees Fahrenheit, and the sleeve is dropped in. When the block cools the sleeve is held in place by the interference fit and the flange at the top or bottom of the cylinder. This cylinder can be rebuilt by simply re-heating the block to 600 degrees and removing the old sleeve and replacing it with a new one. Of course the finish bore will have to be machined to size and honed.

Near the end of the last century it was discovered that you could make a mold pattern using a computer aided molding system out of Styrofoam. This made it possible to have precise duplicate patterns of a particular cylinder that you wanted to mold of aluminum.
These are placed in a mold made of sand, molten aluminum is then poured slowly into the mold melting and replacing the Styrofoam pattern. This process is called total loss mold casting. Now all they have to do is a little milling and drilling, plate the bore and hone to size. For the two stroke market the best part of this is the finished product is an identical copy of the original. The factories love this because it just eliminated a whole lot of assembly line workers. No more absenteeism, no health insurance or pensions, and no coffee breaks. As far as the consumer goes they get a cylinder that doesn’t need a lot porting before they can be competitive.

There are a lot of four stroke motors that use aluminum blocks and aluminum sleeves that are plated a variety of hard finishes. These sleeves can be removed and replaced. The replacement sleeve can be either iron or aluminum. If you want an aluminum sleeve it will have to be plated after installing otherwise it won’t be true and round.

There are several types of plating that has been used over the years, and the companies doing plating guard their formulas carefully. The finish in the early years was a simple chrome or hard chrome electro-plating. The plating was generally only a few thousands of an inch thick. If it was more than about ten thousands of an inch thick it was prone to chipping or flaking because of heat expansion and contraction. In the early seventies Electrofusion became popular. Electrofusion was different from electroplating in as much as it was a fusion process instead of electroplating. Next came ceramic composites and Boron. All of these perform in about the same way as far as wear and durability. Then came Nikasil. Nikasil was a new plating formula of nickel-silicon-carbide. It was harder than the others that came before it. For years you couldn’t get a cylinder re-plated when you damaged one, the only way to get going again was to buy a new one. Now you can choose from many companies doing their own version of Nikasil.

Now lets look at a persons choice of repair or rebuilding methods for their Motorcycle, ATV, Snowmobile, Personal Watercraft, or Outboard. You can have your Nikasil or other plated cylinder re-plated (or some called it re-coated). This includes the composite types.

Or you can have it sleeved with a hardened alloy steel or cast iron (when you add alloys to iron its considered steel). If your cylinder has an iron sleeve already, whether it’s cast-in or not, you’re only real choice is replacing it with another sleeve or a sleeve liner.

Lets assume you’re an avid racer and race 25 weekends a year, you’re going to need a rebuild of your cylinder by the end of the year no matter what type cylinder you have. If it is a plated type cylinder you have three choices. 1- buy a new cylinder for $500-600 for the top end and expect to do the same next year. 2- re-plate it for about $300-400 with piston kit and gaskets and figure on doing it again next year. 3- have it sleeved for about $250-350 with piston kit and gaskets and next year have it bored (most models) to the next size for about $55 plus piston kit and gaskets.

A properly sleeved cylinder will perform as well as any plated cylinder. A properly sleeved cylinder is one that has the proper interference fit, proper pre-sleeve bore finish, accurate flange machining, and sleeve made from the proper alloys. The most popular sleeve is the Moly 2000 chrome-moly iron. The proper boring and honing to match the piston clearance requirements goes without saying.

Pros and Cons

Re-Plated Cylinder Bore
Pros
*Small advantage in heat transfer
*Slightly better wear factor
*Somewhat lower co-efficient of friction
*Weighs a few ounces less
Cons
*Costs slightly more
*Can’t be bored when damage occurs
*More fragile
*Can flake and peel

Iron Sleeved Cylinder Bore
Pros
*Costs less
*Bore able for future over sizes
*Hone able to keep bore true and proper ring seal
*Can be worked with common tools
*Can be replaced when needed
Cons
*Slightly slower heat transfer

The Bottom Line
Both systems perform equally well when professionally done, so it really comes down to economics. You can expect a sleeved cylinder to give more life for the money. Re-plated cylinders are as close to original as you can get. So if your happy with your OEM plated cylinder you should have it re-plated. If not have it sleeved by a company that has the reputation, experience, and warrantees to protect your investment.


Thomas Schueneman is the founder of Kustom Kraft Performance of Glenwood Springs Colorado. KKP was established in 1969 and specializes in Motorcycle, ATV, Personal Watercraft, and Outboard cylinders and Big Bore Kits. http://kustom-kraft.com